While I was at it, I wanted to find a bigger foot (pad) for the end of the kickstand. I decided the best and easiest way to do this was to find a little steel plate, round the edges off and have it welded to the bottom of the kickstand itself.
I got the plate for free so the only cost for all of this was the welding, and bit of black spray paint.
So here are the before and after pics (first one is before, then after):
On the bike, the before and after pics. Also seen installed is the Touratech side stand hardpart, for protecting the vulnerable sidestand mount.
With the kickstand down, I removed the switch from the bike and noticed that the position of the metal keying tab is at the 9 o'clock position.
Then I rotated the tab counterclockwise to simulate raising the kickstand and found the spot where it would allow the bike to start.
To be extra safe and find the precise location, I disconnected the connecter and measured the ohms between all pairs of wires as I moved the switch to find the optimal position.
The optimal position is around the 5 o'clock position as shown below. So I zip-tied and duct taped the tab into this position, reconnected the connector, then stuffed it up under the seat and zip-tied it in place.
Now if I ever want to restore the sidestand switch operation, I can do so.