AdvRider FinnDuro and his PowerCommander (fuel mapping) thread.
BMW X Bike Service Instructions:
- Torque settings:
- Common torque amounts for different bolts, only use if nothing specific can be found:
M5 @ 5Nm (44 in lbs); M6 @ 10Nm (88 in lbs); M8 @ 25Nm (221 in lbs-or 18 ft lbs)
- Torque converter calculator or: a simpler one
- AdvRider thread for all XChallenge torque settings. Here are some commonly used ones:
- Oil change: The M24 oil drain plug torque is 40Nm (30 ft lbs). The M8 oil tank drain spigot torque is 25Nm (221 in lbs-or 18 ft lbs). Oil filter cover M6 bolts are 10Nm (88 in lbs).
- Front sprocket M10 bolt torque to 40Nm (30 ft lbs), 17mm socket; and to use loctite 243 (blue, 243 for oily areas). (listed as: Drive pinion to gearbox output shaft m10). Tip: Put wooden dowel (or axe handle) between spokes (by rim) and swingarm.
- Rear sprocket to rear sprocket carrier M8 bolts with nuts: 25Nm (221 in lbs-or 18 ft lbs), again use thread lock.
- Wheel install: Front/rear axle nut torque is 80Nm (59 ft lbs). The 4 front fork M6 pinch bolts 10Nm (88 in lbs), wrench 8mm. For rear: The M8 chain tensioner lock nuts 25Nm (18 ft lbs), wrenches used are 10 & 13mm open end. ABS sensor bolt uses 8mm wrench.
Directions for front wheel install:
Directions for rear wheel install:
- Note: before wheel was removed: On left side, remove ABS sensor bolt and pull sensor back out of way. Now make sure it is out of the way before removing or inserting wheel into disc caliper.
- Insert axle and snug axle nut as much as possible, the directions say to torque it now but it is too hard to hold the axle using the right side holes for that much torque.
- First snug the right side pinch bolts, then torque axle nut, then loosen right side pinch bolts.
- Remove bike from bike lift and push up and down to compress forks (so right fork tube aligns parallel to left fork tube).
- Torque left side pinch bolts. Torque right side pinch bolts.
- Note: before wheel was removed: On left side, loosen (but don't remove) bolt for speedo/ABS sensor and pull sensor back out of way. Now make sure it is out of the way before removing or inserting wheel into disc caliper.
- Note: before wheel was removed: It is easier to leave the chain adjuster bolts alone and instead just pull the axle to the right enough to slide out the right aluminum block (that is around the axle) so that it clears the adjuster bolt. Pull the blocks away on both sides then slide the axle forward to release tension and spin wheel to remove chain from rear sprocket so you can remove the wheel.
- Later when installing, insert axle and the aluminum blocks on each side, then finger tighten axle nut.
- Adjust chain tension: First the hard way with chain at tightest position: Align the front sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle in a STRAIGHT line which results in the chain is stretched to max (can use ratchet strap from axles across behind seat, to compress shock). Then, since chain stretches unevenly, spin wheel and find point with LEAST chain deflection at midway point. Adjust chain deflection to "just enough", let's say 5-10mm. (See AdvRider thread).
OR INSTEAD, the easy way: Set it once as above then measure what that translates to it in other positions like on the sidestand or on a lift. With bike on a lift and wheel off of the ground with shock fully extended, for my setup (Yacugar shock) it is 1.7". (I measured and this achieves the same slack as the above setting, but is easier to do).
- Make sure chain tensioner lock nut on each side is even and torque both nuts.
- Torque axle nut. Remove bike from lift.
- AdvRider thread for XC clutch basket torque
- AdvRider Drone about torque values
- Engine mounts - torque settings for example needed to install SW-Motech radiator high guard, one on each side, for each one:
Cylinder head to frame: 74Nm (55 ft lbs).. (this is up high under faux tank - where your knees would hit when in a forward seated position).
Bottom Truss: 50Nm (37 ft lbs), (these are at bottom of each side of front truss (like downtubes in front).
- Bolt sizes:
- Oil - checking and changing, and type of oil:
- AdvRider matloik. How to check the oil, from service manual.
- RvbPrecision.com Oil Change directions for G650X. Nice pics. Use torques listed above. (AdvRider RoyB, Roy Bertalotto)
Basic procedure is:
- Remove the oil tank cap. Remove engine oil drain plug and drain engine. (the TouraTech low profile plug uses a huge 10mm hex allen wrench).
- Add 5/16" ID hose onto valve fitting on bottom of oil tank (behind exhaust pipe)... then open the valve with 12mm open end wrench and drain into pan. It is VERY SLOW.
- Oil filter (right side): First remove rear brake fluid reservoir and tie up out of the way. Use aluminum foil under cover then cram small rag in between to catch the excess and divert it into catch pan. Remove 3 bolts on cover, clean area and replace oil filter (HiFlo HF151 is good). O-ring on cover usually is good to re-use. Re-install cover.
- Close tank drain, install engine drain plug.
- Oil - Standard is 15w40. Manual says not to use synthetic until 6,000 miles. One good oil is Shell Rotella "Triple Protection" Heavy Duty 15w40, simply because it is now labeled "JASO MA" a Japanese motorcycle rating indicating it is safe for a motorcycle wet clutch.
- Put 1 qt into oil tank. Run motor 10-15 seconds only. Add 2nd qt. At this point you can add .25 qt now or later, Eventually want 2.25 qts. Run 30 seconds at least. Dip stick level is tricky, just check it a lot until you are used to it.
- AdvRider Neduro shows how to change a tire - detailed! and this post.
- Adam's tire changing instructions - detailed!
- Transworld Motocross - 3 videos on tire changing
- How to flush brake fluid (DOT 4):
- See this AdvRider post.
- See posts above it about installing a SpeedBleeder.com item SB1010S bleeder with checkvalve to make it super easy. Some SpeedBleeder discussion threads: General, Problems, ABS. Be very careful not to over tighten the bleed screw as it is very thin, most say hand tight then 1/2 to 3/4 turn but torque spec is 7 Nm (5 ft lbs), and it takes an odd size 11mm wrench (7/16")!
- One more thing I found useful is to follow the directions for the FRONT brake from the RepRom that says: before and after the normal bleeding process (with the bleeder valve closed), there is another bleeder inside the front brake (use a hex allen wrench) fluid reservoir - you should open it and pump the brake lever to get out any air on that end, then close it - HERE IS A PIC of the REPROM procedure. This is especially needed if you don't keep the reservoir full and get air into the lines. YMMV.
- faq.f650.com about the DVD for the older F650 motor.
- Check valve clearance:
- Advrider about 10km service. and More service schedule info.
- G650X Maintenance Schedule from BMW
- Advrider Mr F give parts needed to repair the water pump
- Advrider Colebatch and others talk about diagnosing a sprag clutch failure
- Advrider cpuover mentions changing spark plugs to the "new" NGK DR8EB and the MotionPro thinwall 18mm spark plug socket 08-0175
XCountry Summary Specs:
BMW New G650Xcountry Prices: includes $495 destination charge(?)
- In 2007-2009 was the G650X (XCountry), like Super motard. Black. Low front fender, no windshield, small tank.
- Only 2.5gal tank. 19" front, but 9.4" travel front / 8.3" rear! Only 280W alternator. Weighs 326/352 lbs. Seat 33.1 - 34.3 in, adj via suspension. No Adj levers. No fuel gauge or tach.
- Predicting 50-65 mpg so only 120 mile range (one site got 67 mpg at 60mph)! (but better than the XR650L which is 2.8 gal but only 90-100 mile range! and the KLR650 is about 36mpg)
Needs premium gas!
- In 2009 they added adjustable levers, lowered forks, shorter shock and cut down seat thickness to lower the seat height; integrated rear footpegs not bolt-on.
- 2007 G650Xcountry $8200 black +ABS $650? (one article said $8626 +$670 for ABS, another said $9345 includes ABA + dest chg)
- 2008 G650Xcountry $7500 black (F800GS intro year)
- 2009 G650Xcountry $7995 yellow. +ABS $900. or black? (F800GS: $10,500-12,995)
- 2010 n/a?
Regarding the G650X motor being made by Longcin in China after mid 2008, in chronological order:
Interesting story about motorcycle trade show in China (and Longcin factory!):
- AdvRider.com post by knowledgeable "BMW Atlanta" in 2008:
- 2007 G650's were Rotax based, only 2008 G650XCountry's are now starting to use Kymco produced engines.
There is a revamped 09 F650GS single on the horizon and an F650GS Twin (F800's little brother).
On top of that there is rumor of a new subframe on 2008.5 G650XCountry's to accomodate saddle bags,.....tons of stuff coming from BMW in the 650 segment, just gotta wait a few more months.
- AdvRider.com post by Nemesis in 2008:
The Xchallenges and Xmotos stopped building (for awhile) in mid 2007. Up til then, they ALL carried Rotax engines built and assembled in Austria.
The 2009 Xcountry carries a Rotax built engine that is ASSEMBLED in the Far East, China I believe. Then the bike is built in Austria! Period!
The "F" series single and the "G" series single are two different motors, very close design to be sure, but the result of two different contracts between BMW and Rotax.
Old "F" single engine contract is expired, over, Kaput, understand? The current contract is for the "G" series
(originally the Xchallenge, Xmoto, Xcountry. Now only the G650GS and the Xcountry. Got it?)
- AdvRider.com post by Bike4Fun in 2009:
BMW and KYMCO started the cooperation project two years ago, with the German partner sending over 10 engineers to help KYMCO set up a
new production line and improve production processes.
Six German engineers still remain with KYMCO to assure the quality fully meet BMW`s requirements.
To meet BMW requirements, KYMCO organized a technical team of 30 experienced technicians,
procured brand-new top-end equipment including computer numeric control (CNC) lathes and x-ray inspection instrument etc.
- AdvRider.com post by XPADREX in 2009:
KYMCO is from Taiwan. LONGCIN, who makes the 650cc engine- is from Chonging Province, in China.
- AdvRider.com post by BlackHammer in 2009:
I just found it humerous that the factory making the motor for BMW also makes Loncin engines , the ones everyone always warns you off buying ,
( chinese crap quads as they are known in most of North America) .
This isn't the same as a Buell with a chinese made wheel , or a Suzuki using a fuel pump from indonesia , IMHO .
I am not being anti-china here , and not saying the engines are crap .
Given time they may one day compete with the japanese , but for now I still equate Loncin with lawnmower engines and cheap 80cc- 300cc pit bikes
*** BMW F650GS Dakar general history: 2000-2006 F650GS Dakar then 2007 G650X ***
2000 and 2001 Dakar was white w/black checkers.
2002 and 2003 Dakar was Blue/white with Red/White/Blue flag emblems.
For 2004 was dual spark version or maybe this was 2005 in US.
2004, 2005 and 2006 Dakar were blue/aluminum.
(Note: When BMW released the *dual* spark FI models in the US, the first model was the 2005 - despite the bike being released in 2004.
This was probably a marketing ploy - buying next years model is better right?)
2006 was last year for Dakar. Still made the F650GS in 2007 but skipped in 2008 when they introduced the F800GS twin.
Then in 2009 the 650 single came back as G650GS (and it's new engine is now made in China) and the F650Gs is the restricted version of the F800GS twin.
All 2000-2007 singles have 50hp, 43ft-lbs(60Nm).
Dakar has 8.27 in of travel front/rear. 21" front wheel. 4.0gal tank. Weighs 390 lbs or 428 w/full tank.
Dakar has 34.2" seat height. (a KLR is 35 and an XR650 is 37"). A GS non-Dakar is 30.7".
Dakar has 400W alternator.
The naming since 2009 is:
All Single cylinders will start with the letter G, all parallel Twins will begin with F, all Boxer Twins will still begin with an R, the in-line Fours will still be K models.
So the 2009 G650GS is a single (like the former F) with only 3 more HP: now 53hp, 43ft-lbs.
vs the 2009 F650GS is a dual with 71hp, 55ft-lbs at $10-12k.
"Old" F-series: 652cc Single
"New" F-series: 788cc Twin
"New" G-Series: 652cc Single
More links to BMWs, Dakar or other non X bikes: